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Oban and The Isle of Mull

Back in October 2020, I took a trip to Oban. It was right at the top of my list of destinations to visit in Scotland.

The seaside town of Oban has been a popular getaway for centuries. It sits in the Argyll and Bute area of Scotland. I got the train up from Glasgow and the journey was great for scenery heading up. I arrived just after 11 and breathed in the fresh west coast sea air.

The town of Oban is exceptionally pretty. You notice it the moment you get off the train. Known for the fishing and seafood, I decided to try some of the later within an hour of arriving. Absolutely delicious, old-fashioned fish and chips lunch on an outside bench! Perfect!

I then checked into the Royal Hotel and had a look around. Pretty basic single room, but good enough for me. Reasonably priced aswell. This trip during the height of Covid, meant that the hotel bar and others were required to close early which was disappointing.

The picture to the left is as you head out of the town centre of Oban along the coastal path. Great for bird watching aswell.

I spent the evening admiring Oban Bay and continued into the dark. The port and the town was lit up at night and made a very pleasant piece of autumn scenery, with the wind hitting the harbour giving you a little shake from nature. I enjoyed this with a couple of cans of Tennents, wrapped up warm. Went back to the Hotel had some satisfactory food and then to bed.

(You can see McCaig’s Tower here lit up

in red).

The next morning I rose first thing for breakfast. A full Scottish breakfast with square sausage and tattie scones, washed down with lots of tea. A full-belly before a big day. I headed down to the Ferry terminal for the 8.45 ferry to the Isle of Mull.

I went on the CalMac (Caledonian MacBrayne) ferry service out from Oban port. A day return cost me £7.80. The ferry inside was splendidly cosy with long red carpets and window seats to admire the journey on all sides. This ferry service is critical for the tourists visiting Mull, but even more so for the small number of full-time inhabitants of the Island that rely on it for their livelihood. This took me into Craignure port.

I arrived on Mull and went to the tourist information. They advised that there are 2 bus services from there. One to the village of Tobermory and the other to the small beach of Fionnphort. I had some time to kill before the Tobermory bus, so took a walk up the road into the bare autumn trees and brown leaves. Half a dozen cars passed me.

I then came back and absorbed the landscape and my full surroundings.

The misty peaks and the peaceful lull of the water back and forth is glorious.

The bus then came to take me to the village of Tobermory, the largest settlement on the Isle of Mull. On the bus you see exciting remote views of the island.

Tobermory some people will know for the fictional children’s programme Balamory, that is supposed to be based on there. It is idyllic with its colourful houses and quaint wee shops. I had a look in a book shop and bought a copy of Catch 22. Then took a walk on the path out of the village towards the lighthouse at Rubna nan Gall. I had to stop for awhile and embrace the panorama on the rocks, that you can see in the video below. Across at the visible points. Hours could of passed blissfully. Read my book a little and went up to the lighthouse.

Had my lunch there in the remote air, then walked back passed the Tobermory golf club.

Back into the village, I stopped for a pint in a local pub.

I found myself imagining what it would be like to actually live here, and would love to hear the experience of anyone that does or has in the past. The challenges faced by the dependence on the ferry service for supplies and tourist income, work and schooling. Surviving the winter months also.

I had a gander in the Tobermory whiskey distillery, which was interesting. A local heritage brand.

https://tobermorydistillery.com/.

I also saw this memorial stone for servicemen in Tobermory who gave their lives during the first world war.

I then got the bus back to the port and then ferry back to Oban. A meal and a good sleep followed. A memorable day to say the least.

The following day I walked up to to McCaig’s Tower and appreciated one of Oban’s most recognisable landmarks. Like a small local granite piece of the roman colosseum. Intended by the architect. Take the opportunity to stop for a bit and digest the scene if offers.

I then found a tourist information centre and they pointed me in the direction of the much smaller island day trip of Kerrera. About an hour’s walk from town. I took the walk and had an hour to kill before the next ferry departure. I read a bit on the rocks smelling the fresh seaweed and everything was grand. There were several hill-points to take some good shots.

The ferry is a little open air boat runs across the 2 landings you can see here, back and forth. Costs about £6/7 if i remember rightly. Crosses take 5 minutes.

Remember to bring some lunch with you in your rucksack. Going to Kerrera really gets you out in the remote shores.

Arriving on Kerrera, I headed left on the track that is on the perimeter of the island. I soon found an old bullet in the mud that nearly tripped me up. Its in my flat now! There were obviously some drivers here as there were a of handful of houses and the roads are tracks most suitable for Land Rovers. The main life is sheeps and cows, you pass them on the tracks as you walk around, they seemed to like it here. Small; far away. This place makes craggy island look like Dubai! The best advice i can give is get there in enough time to walk the whole way round it. It took me about 5 and half hours with breaks to consciously feel the tranquility. I stopped at this spot for 45 minutes.

I walked passed the Kerrera Tea Garden and Bunkhouse, but it was closed at this time. I’m sure staying overnight there would be special in a place like this. Wake up to a nice Cuppa on one of the benches overlooking the land and catching the coast. You really feel a different type of fresh air here, that you feel all through your body. The walking gets your lungs going especially. Bring water and ideally wear hiking boots for the rocky parts and the muddy tracks. Its proper off the grid, but if your looking for somewhere to take a long walk and forget the hustle and bustle of the modern world this will definitely fit the bill!

I stopped at another peaceful spot, more of a bank that was less rocky and took this picture to the left.

You can see the outer reaches of Mull here.

Birds flew past from time to time, but Im no ornithologist. Just added to the peace.

I found another artefact that looked suspiciously like some sort of victorian butt-plug! As with the bullet, you wonder how long they have been left here untouched by human hands. Very much like Kerrera itself.

Gylen Castle is worth a look and these ruin formations of an old stone house below.

This walk round the island was purifying.

I missed out on the summit point of Carn Breugach, but that might be worth a look for the view at 189 metres up. Truth is I was knackered by the time i made it round back to the ferry point, and couldn’t have done that aswell.

The Kerry Lighthouse is suitable pretty on the northernmost point. Shows the entrance to Oban Bay. Hutcheson’s monument is here aswell. This part of the island is popular for otters and seals splashing around.

I envy the occupants of this farm house here, to wake up to this spectacle every morning.

Would you ever get bored of that?

At the end of day I got the ferry back and had the hour walk back into Oban town centre. Tired and starving. I stopped at a bar for table service outside for 2 pints of Innis & Gunn. Went down well and quickly. Then off to find somewhere that served food then. I found Markie Dans at the north end of town and devoured a chicken burger and chips, washed down with 2 more pints in their beer garden. Hit the spot. Then back to the hotel and straight to sleep in all of 15 minutes.

The next day i bought a few gift in the town for family before heading home. It was a memorable holiday and I felt blessed to get the chance to go to these places. If you have enjoyed this post please like, subscribe, comment or get in touch using the details below:

Instagram: armchairexpert22

Email: tom.balfe89@gmail.com

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