Ok. So How Far North can you get and still be in the UK? That would be the Shetland Islands. Held up amidst gale Force winds on this North Sea archipelago.

So why go there then? Just because how far north it is? No. Because of the TV show? Never watched it! (apart from the first episode of a new series that started the other night).

Why go in October? Thats harder to answer, so you’ll need to read on for that one haha.

As with all tales, this has a beginning. This one was an early morning train out of Glasgow Queen Street to Aberdeen.

First time i had been there, and didn’t really see much of this city. Big travel bag to carry so found a Costa to wait for the Ferry boarding time.

I had a call the day before to say that the time had been moved forward 4 hours due to the weather, so my day was already different to what I had my mind on before.

Boarded the Ferry at about 2.15. It was grand. Enormous in my eyes. A NorthLink Ferry. Classy unit.

Then off to the bar for a pint and a look out the window as we set off. Couldn’t be happier. As the journey progressed the ride became choppier with the rough sea. At one point my table and pint nearly flipped and smashed.

Then I had dinner in the restaurant. Fish & Chips with a pint of Orkney Gold Craft Beer. Feeling tired by the point. Had to have have a look out on the deck at the conditions here. Blowy.

Took a few drags on my vape, then (about 8pm) went back to my chair and crashed out like a baby on Nigh Nurse.

Woke up at about 5.30am and I was stationary in Lerwick.

Had a fry up for breakfast, before leaving the ship with my bags.

First Impressions: cold and dark. With a rough kind of beauty.

I stayed at the Islesburgh hostel in Lerwick for the week. A bunk youth hostel, which everyone there knew. This was the first destination on arrival. A local saw me trying to slog my bags down the street and wished me luck. Not a tourist honestly!

I got to the hostel. Checked-In. Nice enough. Cheap and cheerful. A ghost town actually, had a whole 4 bunk dorm to myself.

Lerwick is the only town on Shetland and reminds me of fishing towns in the South West where I grew up. Decided to take the first day to explore Lerwick. This was a nice sunny Saturday and a had a nice walk along the waters edge as you can see below:

The main town centre of Lerwick is quaint and friendly. A cosy community feel. Narrow streets with wee trendy art shops amongst them. You can see Aurora on the left and they sell Jewellery from Orkney: https://www.aurora-jewellery.com/

Had a nose about to get a feel for the place. Like the hostel; quiet. Just locals. There was a nice spot to sit and read for an hour (above). Big flask of tea in hand. Benches in a square, likely popular with locals for a hot drink an a natter. Big flask of tea in hand for me.

Later I had a warm pub meal in the No88 Kitchen and Bar. Watched the rugby and back to the hostel for a good nights kip.

Early rise sunday, kippers for breakfast in the hostel then back into the town. By chance, I noticed a ferry soon to depart just across from Lerwick. Started chatting to some guys there who said this was a 10 minute ferry hop to the island of Bressay. I stocked up on some supplies quickly then jumped on-board. These inter-island ferries cater to cars aswell for those travelling to and from the Shetland mainland.

Whilst moving i talked to an Indian guy I had met the night i shipped over from Aberdeen (helped him access the wifi), who had just arrived in the UK. When we landed on Bressay he went a different way to me.

Bressay is very peaceful, barely inhabited. See the map of Bressay and Noss below:

Decided to walk in the direction of Noss. There were houses intermittently as you headed along the road. Talk about a breath of fresh air. Passed the remains of an old house. Got to a good spot to see Noss, which i couldn’t land on here out of season. Saw some of the birds that tourists jump on the boat tours for in the summer. No ornithologist, so don’t ask which ones! See this video and this cabin. Made me think of a Nick Drake track. And because I thought of it, plugged it in on Spotify. Another good spot to read aswell.

Again: Peaceful. Walked in the direction of Kirkabister and the Lighthouse there:

Enjoyed the beautiful scenery. Headed back to Lerwick at about 5.

The next day was monday and it began with a visit to the tourist information. On their recommendation, I took the bus south to channerwick. There was a free shuttle service bus to take me from there to the small village of Bigton. These services are critical for tourists (and any non-drivers) to travel to and from some of the remote parts of the islands. From Bigton I walked down to the beach of St Ninians Isle.

Stopped on a bench before the beach to read. Got into a conversation with cornishman who lived in house close by with his wife. Fussed his dog and talked about the book i was reading: The Power of Now. The guy clearly had a keen interest in buddhism and he asked me about my story. I got some of his aswell. Even gave me his mobile number in case I ended up stranded. Nice guy! Then as is often the way, we wished each other well and god speed. Now down to the beach.

A stretch of beach that passes though the sea on either side. Had to remind myself I was still in still in Scotland and not an exotic Caribbean island (well the wind helped me to I guess!). The beach separates the Isle from the mainland. Seriously, look on Google Maps.

On the Isle you could read about and see the remnants of an old Chapel. The views from the hill edges were sensational. Rough and bracing. My only company was for 100s of yards was cattle.

The next part of the trip was the return on the shuttle bus, back to the bus service to Sumburgh. The destination of the archaeological site of Jarlshof. A prehistoric and Old Norse Settlement that has survived not just centuries, but millennia. Neolithic people first occupied this site around 2700 BC. There are oval-shaped bronze age houses, an Iron Age Broch Tower (below) and the Wheel House.

Sites of Norse houses and evidence of medieval farming. Hence the “Jarl” in “Jarlshof” nodding to the Viking chiefs who made their home here. There is historical information for all the builds on the site from different time periods.

The Wheel House dates back to the 650 AD Iron Age and is named as such for its circular design. Would of made a great episode of Grand Designs back then! Staggering craftsmanship, withstanding the ever-present danger from the sea to flood and damage the buildings. Its a truly fascinating place to visit and absorb history.

In the evening back in Lerwick, had a tasty dinner of a Hummus Bowl and salad washed down with a few pints. At a fancy restaurant called the Dowry. A packed, fun day.

Next up is part 2 and it begins with a trip to Unst, as north as you can go.

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