Scotland Holidays often involve hills, lochs and rain.
This one was no different and I will tell you all about it.
Last Summer I took 7 day trip up north to the Scottish highlands. Still in Covid times, but an excellent stay-cation and packed loads in on a budget.
The first three nights were in Inverness. I booked a reasonably priced Hostel through The HostelWorld website, called Black Isle. Very central and in easy reach of buses and the train.
I arrived on a Friday afternoon full of excitement, a week off before starting a new job. Had an early pint outside in a pub on the other side of Ness bridge as you head out of the city centre.
Once I had set myself up in the Hostel, the trip began with an open top bus tour of Inverness and the surrounding area.
A beautiful landscape. You can really see why Inverness sells itself as “the capital of the highlands” and the “gateway to exploring it further. It is the most northerly city in Scotland and the history paves the streets, shops and landmarks of the town.
Victorian builds like Inverness Castle and the Free North Church of Scotland (the spire poking its head out in the picture) can be seen perfectly fringing the River Ness.
The hills and countryside around is complimented by trees and some farmland.
Greenery is everywhere. The open-top bus is the best way to see this for yourself.
You can take the blue-route (I took), the red route or both. £10 each or £18 for both.
Back at the Hostel was a space space. Reasonable dorms with lockers. Fridges in the kitchen where you put any labelled food. Showers were fine. In the bunks there are reading lights, which was good for me as I had two books on the go (Band of Brothers and an old John Le Carre). Went to a pub for some seafood and an ale. Was a nice summer evening. Slept fine aswell.
Wide awake at 6 am, bit of toast, showers, grabbed my stuff an off! Id booked a day long bus tour of Loch Ness. I used a Company called Rabbies Tours. An archetype Scotland Tour setup; a guy from Edinburgh in a kilt giving us a tour of Loch Ness in a small bus.
Our small, cosy group were driven around Loch Ness and we stopped at various points of interest. Stopping at Foyers Waterfall, a long walk down and then back up again. Worth looking at for videos. The sound of the water is mindfullness itself.
Fort Augustus on the west is nice to see Caledonian canal and the boats passing through it. The supporting quaint little village, perfect for a tea and snack. You can enjoy this whilst sitting on the canal bank as I did. Later we went to Castle ruins, infact going inside some aswell. You will notice the smell (not unpleasant), like you would a burnt building.
Then onto Find Nessie. We went on a boat out into Loch Ness. There was an extra charge (between £10-£15) but worth every penny. Scotland’s largest, most famous Loch and I find it difficult to believe there is any more impressive. Simply Stunning.
We cruised through the loch for over an hour. The Tour guide told us that some people look for Nessie up and down on their boat, as a full-time job. The closest we came to it were the fluffy toys in the gift shops, but nevermind eh! When looking across the loch and to the surrounding hills, you had the feeling that you could have seen the same spectacle hundreds and possibly thousands of years ago. It was that special. We got close to the ancient ruins of Urquhart Castle.
I bought a bottle of whisky in one of the gift shops. A Gaelic brand called “Slainte” translating as “Health”. Looking at the bottle you could mistake it for aftershave. After this we headed back to Inverness. All in all, a grand day out.
Back at the hostel I got talking to another solo traveller who was soon heading further north to Orkney. Had a few pints in cheery pub with a Celtic style band playing. Good vibes.
The next day, I headed out early to the most northerly point on my trip; the picturesque fishing village of Ullapool. Even as the coach pulled in, you could see a large ferry ready to head out to one of the Islands. It hammered down with rain all day, but did nothing to deter me. I had my breakfast, which was a bacon sandwich and some tea from my flask (an essential item for this type of expedition) whilst looking across the misty seafront. The houses around looked old and weather beaten from the winters. Paths away from the village took you out to fishing spots and streams. Theres a charm to this place.
I went to the tourist information to find a hill to venture up.
I chose Beinn Eilideach via Ullapool hill (Meall Mor). It took several hours, but you get decent vantage points of the village and the landscape at frequent points trekking up the hill. A good pair of walking boots are a must for this, and waterproofs for days like this one.
This pile of rocks marked the highest point.
I had my lunch on a bench spot in the video below. Rugged.
After taking in scenery fresh, air and having a wee rest, I went back down.
Stopping at a local pub for a pint outside to warm me up then got the coach back.
Later on I went for a pizza and drinks at the Black Isle Bar and restaurant, owned by the hostel just down the road from it. It had a backpacker and student vibe. Everyone was friendly. Got chatting to a kiwi girl living in London who had been to Skye that day. Told me it reminded her of being back in New Zealand.
The next morning I took a final walk around Inverness and took everything in. A final stop was Leakey’s bookshop, a real old fashioned cool place to have a browse. Then I got the train to Aviemore in the Cairngorms. I arrived after midday and took a slow walk to my hotel. It was a longer walk from the town this time. I found the Coylumbridge Aviemore Hotel is basically in the woods. As much in the woods as you get today. Out on its own, most guests are drivers it has an Overlook hotel aura. Nice though. Took awhile to check in, the room en-suite with a double bed and a tv. Headed to the front outdoor patio tables for a beer in the sun. I relaxed for the rest of the day and dived in to the buffet dinner. Slept like a baby.
Next morning, breakfast with the buffet of full-english after some coffee and porridge. Set me up for the day. Walked into Aviemore and got an early bus to the Anagach Woods beyond the town of Grantown-on-Spey. Once you get there you will sense the sight and smell of pine trees that tower over you. You can stop at one of the Borders of the River Spey, spots to read and meditate with the sound of the water. I couldn’t tell you how long I was doing this for, as didn’t care for time.
Deeper in the woods it dark and the trees get taller. Below is a kind of crossroads I found.
The woods eventually end if you keep going and then emerge on open country space.
Heading back into Grantown, took a wander of the town before catching the bus back to Aviemore. Continuing to follow a guidebook I purchased, went looking for Craigellachie National Nature Reserve. This one of the main reason I chose Aviemore as destination. Full of Gorgeous silver birch trees. and birds chirping away in summer months like this one. I began the climb up Craigallachie hill. This was quite steep for me at times. Its a popular trek with a choice of paths. The views are spectacular as you reach the summit points. You can see some of the winter sports facilities that bring tourists in during those months.
The village below is a colour contrast with the green trees and fields. The misty mountains are the perfect backdrop. The rainbow in the video below added to the ambience. This is from the top.
This pool of water reflected the afternoon sun, when breaking through the clouds. You really felt like you were in the Scottish highlands.
The ground was mossy and there was a pile of rocks to mark the top of this hill aswell.
I stayed and admired for the best part of an hour.
Others made the same climb and I shared some words with a young couple who were taking photographs and said this was their favourite view in the Cairngorms.
I then made a slow walk back down and got a hot dog from a pub, some tasty comfort food. A few drinks back at the hotel, then reading before bed.
The next day i took a long walk through the woodlands to Loch Morlich. A small beach popular with tourists, many in campervans. You could hire kayaks for the day at this time of year. Other watersports like sailing and and windsurfing are also well liked here. Peaceful nonetheless. The Boathouse cafe is ideal for a cup of tea and bite to eat on the beach benches. The Loch is vast. You walk alongside it through the woods or the road and as you head towards the beach, its a real gem. Tourists can take their kids in the loch for a dip. The watersports look like good fun, especially watching the kayaks and the windsurfers. Good business for the locals.
Its a long walk from the hotel I stayed, so i took it easy and lay on the beach. Changing my spot every so often to read and take some pictures. Im so glad I got the chance to go here.
Loch Morlich:
On my last full day of the trip I went searching the Cairngorms for Loch an Eilein. This is hidden deeply in the Rothiemurchus forest. It is less busy than Morlich and really gives you the feeling of being out in the wilderness. The walk through the twisty forest paths, go off in all sorts of directions and you could lose yourself here. If you keep to the paths with signposting to Loch An Eilein you come out of the periphery of trees that surround this beautiful area. Basically its like something from the wizard of oz.
I found a clearing to have some lunch. Eventually i came out into Loch An Eilein.
You can access this by car aswell, but i recommended coming through the forest.
You feel like you have discovered it.
This was the day a chose to grab my swimming shorts and go for a swim in the Loch. Eilein looked colder than Morlich, so I braced myself for the chill. You dive in and its a jolt thats for sure! It had to be done tho. Your body temperature readjusts after a few minutes and then you start to enjoy it. I swam towards a small island of land in the loch you can see in the video below. Its very therapeutic and great for your mental health. Its fine to leave your stuff for a while aswell, its safe.
After all that, I walked back to the hotel had a big dinner and a wee dram before bed. The next day I checked out and got the train back home. A fantastic trip and would thoroughly recommend the places I went.
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