I wrote this post with the intention to really get back to the purpose of why i started Going Solo in the first place. To express how I experienced these places, the places themselves and show a few snaps!

My tale of these mystic Islands continues….

Beginning with the biggest adventure of the whole trip.

Unst

To the Viking land of Unst.

This Tuesday began at the crack of dawn. Here at the Lerwick bus Station, still dark as you can see:

The bus north departed just before 7am. A pleasant trip, It took over an hour to reach the Ferry point of Toft. Boardin the large ferry to Yell. Whilst on board, had a chat with an older english gent who lived on the Island. Picked up a wee bit of local knowledge and general friendly conversation. Sounded like a writer.

Arrived on Yell, was picked up by a transfer cab headed for the Unst Ferry. Chatty cabbie that everyone on the Island knew apparently called ‘cockney Al’, Made me laugh a few times. Left London rent prices behind for a £150 per month council house here (fairplay mate!). Yell has a beautiful landscape. Would like to see more of it and will next time. Only saw this Island through the car window, but you can only fit in so much in one go. Boarded the smaller inter-island ferry to Unst.

I was picked up in a transfer bus by a younger guy called Archie. We stopped at a supply shop, ran by a nice woman who seemed grateful for people to talk to. Bought some snacks. I told Archie to head as far north as he goes and drop me off there, which he did. Walked down a hill and came straight into this:

Speaks for itself right. And there was not another soul around. Had a read of The Power of Now. Some tea and a vape. The sea smelled perfect, with a just slight breeze. A sunny morning aswell. Bliss!

After and hour or so, took a mooch around the beach. Walked up the hill that starts where the house you can see is (lucky bastards).This was the point where i got my exercise (and then some) in for the day. Had a bit of lunch at the top.

Earlier on, Archie had told me about the spaceport project where SaxaVord had gained permission for vertical rocket launches beginning in 2024. You may have seen this in the news over Christmas. Will bring vital employment to the area, which historically has been sustained by oil money. Click on the image (made me chuckle!) for the BBC article on this.

Viewpoint on the North Coast. You can see SaxaVord from here

Then I saw something Attenborough would be proud of. Seals coming into land. Bobbing up and down. Could be their first sight of UK soil, after swimming thousands of miles, to find some twat with his camera phone pointing at them! Check these out:

I thought this was absolutely breathtaking. Something I felt truly privileged to witness first hand with my own eyes. I stayed at this point and present for good long while.

Took a slow walk back the way the way I came. Stopped at an old abandoned hut.

Next day was a chill day. Lay-in, post cards, Read, wander round Lerwick and Fish & Chips whilst watching the rugby. It was a holiday after all!

Hillswick

Then Thursday arrived and on the famous cockney Al’s recommendation, I headed for Hillswick on the North West of the mainland. To the cliffs of Eshaness. Problem was the wind. Storm Babet had hit. And hit it did! My return ferry home was rescheduled for 2 days later because of it (did i mind? Nah!). I took the first bus north in the morning and decided to have a look.

Arrived in the small village of Hillswick at about 9.30 and headed off. The winds really were ferocious. Baltic conditions aswell, but I ploughed on. I’d come this far.

I passed these beautiful Norwegian style houses. The viking influence clear in the architecture:

Shetland is used to these rough winds, but i wasn’t. At one point they reached over 70mph. I could barely hold my phone to take pictures and videos, without it flying out of my hand. This is why I couldn’t get close to the Eshaness cliffs. The winds were too dangerous and I value my life.

Disappointing, but sometimes the elements get the better of you.

After a walk back through the Hillswick circular, I got the bus back to Lerwick.

Lerwick and final day out.

The following day I went for a nice leisurely swim at the Lerwick public pool. A great way to start the day. Then put the calories burnt straight back on with a cafe fry up.

That night I went to the Cinema. Shetland’s only Cinema, The Mareel. To see the Martin Scorsese film, Killers of the Flower Moon. A good spot for a pint watching the film aswell (not just me that thought this). Very watchable story about native american oil, worth a look. Watching it on another oil rich land.

The next day was the last full day and a saturday. For a hop-on, hop-off minibus trip to Scalloway, Papil and Hamnavoe down this south- west stretch of the Islands.

Weather a bit miserable. Got the first bus out to Scalloway (nothing special there) and grabbed a coffee before the minibus picked me up. The first stop was Papil and another beautiful beach; Minn Beach. Less spectacular perhaps than some of the previous, but still a wee gem that was recommended to me by a local. Bracing conditions again.

Papil was very peaceful. The rain meant no reading here, so wandered along this coastline and got some shots of the landscape. Not long after the bus picked me up at the top the hill to take me to the village of Hamnavoe.

Walked through this fishing village and clambered up some small hills. Took in the nice views and had my tea and lunch up one of them. Had to make the most of the time I had left.

Took a walk down another beach, (guess you realise i like my sea and beach pics by now) this one called Meal beach. Had a wee vape there and chilled blissfully. Got my boots in the north sea for a few minutes aswell.

At 4pm the minibus collected me and took me back to Scalloway. I then caught the bus service back to Lerwick.

That night I had some fresh Shetland Hake fish with potatoes and vegetables in a cosy restaurant. Washed down with a few glasses of red wine. A nice way to end my final evening.

Leaving Day (Shetland Museum)

Had a lazy morning in the hostel with several cups of tea with some boiled eggs and toast for breakfast. Had to be out of the dorm room by 11am, so packed up and moved my suitcase to the storage room and I drank more tea in the communal living room. Chatted to some other guests for a while.

I decided to walk down to Lerwick’s Shetland Museum, which I had saved for the leaving day (https://www.shetlandmuseumandarchives.org.uk/).

The history displayed here is absolutely fascinating. From the early settlements of Jarlshof (as shown on part 1) and a burial site in Sumburgh where bones more than 5000 years old have been discovered.

The story of how pioneers developed civilisations and civilisations developed communities. The work that has sustained life here throughout the decades and centuries. Such as valued seamen, skilled with boats who were recruited by the British navy in the Napoleonic wars with France between 1793 – 1815. Most warships had at least one Shetlander onboard.

Skills like Spinning wool using yarn to produce Shetland’s renown style of knitwear. Trades that put food on the table for local families.

This image below illustrates the changes in population on the Islands:

Many natives leaving in the last century, seeking the opportunities of the UK mainland.

Other staples of Shetland Industry are off course fishing and oil. The museum has a film (shot in the 70s) showing BP’s presence in Shetland in the sourcing of north sea oil and gas. These fossil fuels have long since provided the most lucrative form of employment in the area in recent decades.

The boat equipment used fishing on the wild north sea are replicated. This harpoon looks vicious for its intended prey.

Other factors are detailed like the Geology of Shetland aswell as cultural interests and contributions.

So after a thorough rekkie of the museum, I purchased a few small prezzies from the gift shop. Overall, This Museum is definitely a must see when you visit Shetland. I hope this has provided a glimpse if nothing more.

So took a slow walk back to the hostel. Picked up all my belongings and read for an hour or so.

Then came the time to say goodbye. As they say; all good things must come to an end. By 7pm I was at the Ferry Terminal. Waited with my headphones on for awhile then boarded.

The return journey was not as enjoyable as the one out. Barely slept, rough conditions again and didn’t eat much of the dinner or breakfast. Arrived back in Aberdeen first thing in the morning.

Regardless, this was special trip. One off my bucket list, but I’ll visit again. Probably in the season next time to see some of the seasonal attractions. Possibly even hire a car also. I hope you might consider visiting Shetland aswell.

Again; If you have enjoyed reading this please like, share with your friends and comment below:

Safe Travels!

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