Category: Scotland

Ok. So How Far North can you get and still be in the UK? That would be the Shetland Islands. Held up amidst gale Force winds on this North Sea archipelago.

So why go there then? Just because how far north it is? No. Because of the TV show? Never watched it! (apart from the first episode of a new series that started the other night).

Why go in October? Thats harder to answer, so you’ll need to read on for that one haha.

As with all tales, this has a beginning. This one was an early morning train out of Glasgow Queen Street to Aberdeen.

First time i had been there, and didn’t really see much of this city. Big travel bag to carry so found a Costa to wait for the Ferry boarding time.

I had a call the day before to say that the time had been moved forward 4 hours due to the weather, so my day was already different to what I had my mind on before.

Boarded the Ferry at about 2.15. It was grand. Enormous in my eyes. A NorthLink Ferry. Classy unit.

The first thing i did was use my keycard i was given to find my pod chair, which would be my bed for the night. See here:

Then off to the bar for a pint and a look out the window as we set off. Couldn’t be happier. As the journey progressed the ride became choppier with the rough sea. At one point my table and pint nearly flipped and smashed.

Then I had dinner in the restaurant. Fish & Chips with a pint of Orkney Gold Craft Beer. Feeling tired by the point. Had to have have a look out on the deck at the conditions here. Blowy.

Took a few drags on my vape, then (about 8pm) went back to my chair and crashed out like a baby on Nigh Nurse.

Woke up at about 5.30am and I was stationary in Lerwick.

Had a fry up for breakfast, before leaving the ship with my bags.

First Impressions: cold and dark. With a rough kind of beauty.

I stayed at the Islesburgh hostel in Lerwick for the week. A bunk youth hostel, which everyone there knew. This was the first destination on arrival. A local saw me trying to slog my bags down the street and wished me luck. Not a tourist honestly!

I got to the hostel. Checked-In. Nice enough. Cheap and cheerful. A ghost town actually, had a whole 4 bunk dorm to myself.

Lerwick is the only town on Shetland and reminds me of fishing towns in the South West where I grew up. Decided to take the first day to explore Lerwick. This was a nice sunny Saturday and a had a nice walk along the waters edge as you can see below:

The main town centre of Lerwick is quaint and friendly. A cosy community feel. Narrow streets with wee trendy art shops amongst them. You can see Aurora on the left and they sell Jewellery from Orkney: https://www.aurora-jewellery.com/

Lerwick Town Garden Square

Had a nose about to get a feel for the place. Like the hostel; quiet. Just locals. There was a nice spot to sit and read for an hour (above). Big flask of tea in hand. Benches in a square, likely popular with locals for a hot drink an a natter. Big flask of tea in hand for me.

Later I had a warm pub meal in the No88 Kitchen and Bar. Watched the rugby and back to the hostel for a good nights kip.

Early rise sunday, kippers for breakfast in the hostel then back into the town. By chance, I noticed a ferry soon to depart just across from Lerwick. Started chatting to some guys there who said this was a 10 minute ferry hop to the island of Bressay. I stocked up on some supplies quickly then jumped on-board. These inter-island ferries cater to cars aswell for those travelling to and from the Shetland mainland.

Whilst moving i talked to an Indian guy I had met the night i shipped over from Aberdeen (helped him access the wifi), who had just arrived in the UK. When we landed on Bressay he went a different way to me.

Bressay is very peaceful, barely inhabited. See the map of Bressay and Noss below:

Decided to walk in the direction of Noss. There were houses intermittently as you headed along the road. Talk about a breath of fresh air. Passed the remains of an old house. Got to a good spot to see Noss, which i couldn’t land on here out of season. Saw some of the birds that tourists jump on the boat tours for in the summer. No ornithologist, so don’t ask which ones! See this video and this cabin. Made me think of a Nick Drake track. And because I thought of it, plugged it in on Spotify. Another good spot to read aswell.

Again: Peaceful. Walked in the direction of Kirkabister and the Lighthouse there:

Enjoyed the beautiful scenery. Headed back to Lerwick at about 5.

The next day was monday and it began with a visit to the tourist information. On their recommendation, I took the bus south to channerwick. There was a free shuttle service bus to take me from there to the small village of Bigton. These services are critical for tourists (and any non-drivers) to travel to and from some of the remote parts of the islands. From Bigton I walked down to the beach of St Ninians Isle.

Stopped on a bench before the beach to read. Got into a conversation with cornishman who lived in house close by with his wife. Fussed his dog and talked about the book i was reading: The Power of Now. The guy clearly had a keen interest in buddhism and he asked me about my story. I got some of his aswell. Even gave me his mobile number in case I ended up stranded. Nice guy! Then as is often the way, we wished each other well and god speed. Now down to the beach.

A stretch of beach that passes though the sea on either side. Had to remind myself I was still in still in Scotland and not an exotic Caribbean island (well the wind helped me to I guess!). The beach separates the Isle from the mainland. Seriously, look on Google Maps.

On the Isle you could read about and see the remnants of an old Chapel. The views from the hill edges were sensational. Rough and bracing. My only company was for 100s of yards was cattle.

The next part of the trip was the return on the shuttle bus, back to the bus service to Sumburgh. The destination of the archaeological site of Jarlshof. A prehistoric and Old Norse Settlement that has survived not just centuries, but millennia. Neolithic people first occupied this site around 2700 BC. There are oval-shaped bronze age houses, an Iron Age Broch Tower (below) and the Wheel House.

Sites of Norse houses and evidence of medieval farming. Hence the “Jarl” in “Jarlshof” nodding to the Viking chiefs who made their home here. There is historical information for all the builds on the site from different time periods.

The Wheel House dates back to the 650 AD Iron Age and is named as such for its circular design. Would of made a great episode of Grand Designs back then! Staggering craftsmanship, withstanding the ever-present danger from the sea to flood and damage the buildings. Its a truly fascinating place to visit and absorb history.

In the evening back in Lerwick, had a tasty dinner of a Hummus Bowl and salad washed down with a few pints. At a fancy restaurant called the Dowry. A packed, fun day.

Next up is part 2 and it begins with a trip to Unst, as north as you can go.

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At the back end of last year, you may have read my post “A Devonian in Glasgow”. Here is the follow-up, the sequel in early spring 2023.

January and February were filled up by work. In mid march by good friend Chris came here to visit me here for a weekend. I showed him some sites of the city that you will see here.

He arrived early friday evening at my flat. The first stop was the Celtic bar Heraghty’s for the best pint of Guinness in Glasgow! A real old school south-side boozer. We then went further south to the district of Shawlands. Few more drinks in the Phillies of Shawlands. This area is popular with a hipster crowd and the drinks menu caters for this with unusual cocktails. Then back to Govanhill to mine, an picked up a decent kebab on the way home.

The next morning we got a Scottish breakfast at a cafe (with tattie scones, but no square sausages) to fuel up. Its recommended to book ahead for the busier cafes, which we didn’t but found a small one near Queens Park.

The destination was then the Transport Museum (officially called the Riverside Museum) on the west end banks of the Clyde. We took a train into Central Station and then the subway to Partick. A 10 minute walk along the river from there. The Transport Museum is free of charge, (many of Scotland’s publicly funded attractions are still) and to be protected. We looked at original subway carriages. The world’s third oldest underground railway, after London and Budapest, opening 125 years ago on 14 December 1896.

You can go inside carriages and experience the space that passengers had to get to work or go out for a weekend drink.

There are Vintage Glasgow double decker buses on show from the early to mid 20th century.

You can also view classic cars and crafted models of Titanic like cruise liners like Cunard.

To the right you can see this replica of a Glasgow street including a Upholsterer, a Bakery’s cart and a Pub (The Mitre). The Carts pulled by horses. You can go inside the Upholstery and the Pub (see below – right).

You feel back in time over 100 years ago.

We took everything in, also including a precursor to the modern combustion engine and old experiential videos with employees in areas of Glasgow transport. Like early Pakistani immigrants and pioneering women who worked the Glasgow Subways or were Bus Conductresses.

The museum has 2 floors with the upstairs including Clyde Shipbuilding history. You don’t just learn, we really got a feel for the craftsmanship and its significance on the modern day successors.

We thoroughly enjoyed this and the next stop was the Glasgow Science Centre, down and across the Clyde. Less a museum and more an educational interactive exhibition. It covers human science, planets, chemistry and innovative science to name some sections. Costs about £12 for day entry. A great place to go with kids, with a variety in its exhibits. Whether its trying to get magnets to touch one another, trying to use buttons to make the muscles in plastic legs ride a pushbike (hard!) or using visual memory to recall the facial features in a video of robbery to identify the criminal.

That evening we got the subway to Hillhead in the west end for some Haggis, neeps and tatties at the Ubiquitous Chip on the fashionable Ashton Lane. Fantastic, Scottish winter comfort food. A few pints aswell and then onto the Sub Club in the city centre. The house music that night wasn’t good to be honest, but this was still a great day overall.

(The Hydro arena to the right. Famous for gigs and events like world championship boxing).

Chris went back down south the next day. He will be back.

A week later my mum came up from Devon to stay with me for 7 nights, which was very exciting.

On the first full day we took a walk south to The Burrell Collection art museum.

Reopened in March 2022, located in the peaceful Pollok country park.

The contrast between the modern building and its works being hundreds of years old (and some thousands) is particularly impressive and certainly catches the eyes.

There are so many interesting pieces here. One of the videos explains that there are just as many pieces behind sight in the gallery stockrooms. Sounds and looks like a fascinating place to work.

Another Glasgow attraction free of charge aswell. Some classic art pieces like those below.

(The Art Collector William Burrell himself)

(Very old Chinese Dog!)

We had a coffee in the cafe which looks out across Pollok park, then headed back.

The next day we headed out of Glasgow Central on the train to Lanark and the short walk to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, New Lanark.

This is an 18th Century Mill village where people milled cotton, serving the whole Lanark area and beyond. You can learn much of the story and the current resident community in the Visitor Centre. That New Lanark was the UK’s largest cotton mill in 1790. 65 people live here now and there is also a hostel you can stay at.

The bridge across to the cafe, shop and river.

After a coffee and packed lunch on one of the benches we headed out to the Falls of Clyde, national nature reserve. 4 Waterfalls called the Linns. Below you can see 2 videos of the Corra Linn, the largest fall with a drop of 26 metres. Its a great vantage point from this position. Many much more professional photographers than myself can be seen capturing this spot of the Falls.

Its a really peaceful stroll that takes you down the river on a boardwalk past some small garden ponds where you can see plenty of Frogs living and breeding.

You can see a small cottage next to here where whoever looks after these ponds must stay.

See if you can spot the Flog to the left here poking its head out.

The walk through the Falls of Clyde really just keeps going and if you continue to the end you come out at Hyndford bridge and onto a main road.

As you head down the boardwalk, one path takes you past Bonnington Weir, another good spot for snaps.

After an hour or so, we walked back towards New Lanark village. We stopped at the cafe and gift shop building and had a look for some postcards.

When you head back out of the village, you go uphill to the exit. Do not miss the ancient graveyard though. You just head out and take a left track (signposted) to see some burial stones hidden away in the woods. This cemetery was for the local residents of the village at the time of the cotton mill.

After walking back to Lanark we had a Fish Supper in a chippy (good scran!) and then got the train back to Glasgow and home.

The next day was a lazy one, but the following day we took a trip to Auld Reekie, otherwise known as Edinburgh. When we arrived we took one of the city’s dark maroon buses to the Royal Botanic Gardens. You can see and learn about hundreds of exotic plants like these in here in one of the greenhouses. I had a particular interest in the different species of cactuses.

A colourful array of plants with impressive latin names. We walked the perimeter of the gardens so we didn’t miss anything. My mum is a keen gardener and loved this place. The west gate entrance has a cafe, shop and visitors centre. In the shop you can buy seeds, plants, pots etc. Aswell as more gift shop type presents. This building is modern.

We visited a small art exhibition in a house on the grounds. On its opening day.

This picture to the right was taken in the vibrant Rock Garden. There are approximately 5,000 species of plant here.

The Garden is made to resemble some of the mountain habitats of rural China. This is a must see if you visit Edinburgh.

After a few hours the two of us got the bus back into the city centre. We took a walk down the Royal Mile, looking in its quaint shops. You see historic buildings like the Castle and churches. Near the train station you can see Chris Hoy’s gold post box for his gold medals at the London 2012 Olympics.

We then got the train back to Glasgow, had some food at mine and watched some TV.

The next morning drew us to the local Queens Park for a walk. I go there a few times a week, sometimes for a jog. The video below is from the Flagpole viewpoint.

Walking to the city centre again, we passed this mural on the wall of the Hootenanny pub. This is for legendary comedian Billy Connolly.

An excellent piece of artwork to honour the bigman himself.

Just next to the St Enoch subway station and shopping centre, as you cross the Clyde.

We sat on a bench by the Clyde and had a hot drink. A nice spot to take a minute.

The final stop on the last day was the Tramway arts venue back on the southside. They were showcasing african artwork created using only recycled materials.

(The Tramway arts venue below).

After all these enjoyable and busy days, my mum went back to England after a lovely time for the both of us. Getting the opportunity to show my current home city (and places within reach) to my family.

Two days after she left I went to the Scotland Spain football match at Hampden park with my pal Jim.

A raucous home atmosphere. The tartan army packed the stadium out for a big Euro qualifier.

We had seats in the east stand and Scotland were shooting towards us in the first half.

And 7 minutes in; Scott McTominay put Scotland ahead with a clinical finish. The place was absolutely rocking now!

Scotland were up for this game. Pressing Spain and going in for tackles. Keeping more of the possession than you would expect against a team like the Spanish.

And just after half time, would you believe it; Scott McTominay scored another! A pinpoint volley from the edge of the penalty area this time.

Scotland and Hampden were on fire!

Spain were having lots of possession now but were creating little to no clear cut chances.

Scotland were on the brink and just need to keep their discipline and concentration. And then the final whistle blew…

Scotland’s biggest scalp in over a decade and the fans broke into Gala – Freed from Desire as you can see here. And thoroughly deserved. ‘Scuse the shaky camera work from me ha. The fans would sing into the night.

It was a fitting end to a special few weeks with friends and family.

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A few years ago I visited North East Derbyshire and explored places in this part of the english Peak District.

On this trip I was seeing family, but got to see plenty of splendid spots and spectacular scenery.

I came up on the train from Plymouth, where I was living at the time. My uncle picked me up in Chesterfield the closest big-town and central to the area.

He drove us to the cottage he lives in in with wife just outside the tiny village of Press on a late march lunchtime.

What struck me immediately was how open the landscape was, with hills emerging abundantly across all sides. We walked up one of these here at Ashover Rocks, a good vantage point. Also known as “The Fabrick” I was told. Would have been even better with binoculars. This was a 15 minute walk from his house.

We went back and had some lunch. Fussed his two dogs. Different ages but loved getting out for walks which wont surprise you.

A peaceful, mind-clearing spot to walk.

We then drove out to the local town of Matlock (not to be confused with Grandpa Simpson’s favourite TV show) and to Cromford Mills; the birthplace of the modern factory system. You can observe the first water powered cotton spinning mill. Its a delightful and equally informative mill to visit. The history of the labour involved in early textile manufacturing from as early as the late 18th century.

We came back to the cottage, had some dinner, a beer and an early night. Up early the next morning and off for a drive again. This time out to Baslow edge, an excellent scenic spot that shows off the Peak District gloriously.

The weather was bracing and we got out at the National Trust car park. Perfect conditions for the ruff and rocky terrain.

Once you get to the edge its fantastic.

You can see the small villages below and this vast open area of the peak district. Green with splashes of brown. Even better with a flask of tea and a lunchbox.

The rock formations and the gritstones themselves are spectacular.

A pleasure to view and absorb your surroundings, all around and into the distance.

Below to the right is the village of Curbar.

Curbar Edge is a perfect spot to tower over the village here.

Baslow Edge to the left, Curbar to the right:

We came-back and had some food, a beer and watched a movie.

The next day we went to The Blue John Cavern in Castleton. The home of the Blue John Stone mined here. Used in Jewellery, including earrings, bracelets, brooches and pendants.

We took the 245 steps down into the cavern with a guide. It gets deeper and darker. The guide goes into the history of this hand mined gem. He was an older chap who gave the impression of doing the job for a long time.

It is interesting how he explained the care required in the mining to not disturb the colouring of the Blue John in the mining processes, which if failed leaves the mineral worthless. The crystalline formation of the gem can be seen in the these pictures I took in the dark cavern.

This rare mineral, only known to be found at this Derbyshire mine, first to be discovered by the Romans nearly 2000 years ago.

Being in this cavern gave you the feeling of going back in time. To an age where the need for raw minerals through mining was central to local communities. But the Blue John is special and unique to this place.

You can see this in the gift shop aswell, where you can buy jewellery and ornamental pieces made with the Blue John. The displays of different pieces of gemstones, i bought one for myself and one as a gift for family.

Be prepared for a trek and back up when you go, but a good day out certainly.

We then went to Derwent Reservoir. The site of practice raids for World War II RAF 617 Squadron. Practice for those known today as the Dambusters Raids.

It takes some getting around that these pillar towers either side would have seen the main preparation for one of the most significant allied aviation missions in the war. Dive-bombing aircraft low-flying above the water.

Aside from this, Derwent is a nice reservoir to visit anyway. Watching the water as it streams along and crashes as it hits the base of the dam is peaceful and hypnotic.

The Dam wall is also impressive. The area is hills and woodland split apart on either side by this River Derwent. This is definitely a spot to make a point of seeing in the peak district.

At the end of this we headed back to my uncle’s place and had some hot food.

The next day i headed back on the train. This was a good trip and we packed a lot in in only 2 full days.

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Back in October 2020, I took a trip to Oban. It was right at the top of my list of destinations to visit in Scotland.

The seaside town of Oban has been a popular getaway for centuries. It sits in the Argyll and Bute area of Scotland. I got the train up from Glasgow and the journey was great for scenery heading up. I arrived just after 11 and breathed in the fresh west coast sea air.

The town of Oban is exceptionally pretty. You notice it the moment you get off the train. Known for the fishing and seafood, I decided to try some of the later within an hour of arriving. Absolutely delicious, old-fashioned fish and chips lunch on an outside bench! Perfect!

I then checked into the Royal Hotel and had a look around. Pretty basic single room, but good enough for me. Reasonably priced aswell. This trip during the height of Covid, meant that the hotel bar and others were required to close early which was disappointing.

The picture to the left is as you head out of the town centre of Oban along the coastal path. Great for bird watching aswell.

I spent the evening admiring Oban Bay and continued into the dark. The port and the town was lit up at night and made a very pleasant piece of autumn scenery, with the wind hitting the harbour giving you a little shake from nature. I enjoyed this with a couple of cans of Tennents, wrapped up warm. Went back to the Hotel had some satisfactory food and then to bed.

(You can see McCaig’s Tower here lit up

in red).

The next morning I rose first thing for breakfast. A full Scottish breakfast with square sausage and tattie scones, washed down with lots of tea. A full-belly before a big day. I headed down to the Ferry terminal for the 8.45 ferry to the Isle of Mull.

I went on the CalMac (Caledonian MacBrayne) ferry service out from Oban port. A day return cost me £7.80. The ferry inside was splendidly cosy with long red carpets and window seats to admire the journey on all sides. This ferry service is critical for the tourists visiting Mull, but even more so for the small number of full-time inhabitants of the Island that rely on it for their livelihood. This took me into Craignure port.

I arrived on Mull and went to the tourist information. They advised that there are 2 bus services from there. One to the village of Tobermory and the other to the small beach of Fionnphort. I had some time to kill before the Tobermory bus, so took a walk up the road into the bare autumn trees and brown leaves. Half a dozen cars passed me.

I then came back and absorbed the landscape and my full surroundings.

The misty peaks and the peaceful lull of the water back and forth is glorious.

The bus then came to take me to the village of Tobermory, the largest settlement on the Isle of Mull. On the bus you see exciting remote views of the island.

Tobermory some people will know for the fictional children’s programme Balamory, that is supposed to be based on there. It is idyllic with its colourful houses and quaint wee shops. I had a look in a book shop and bought a copy of Catch 22. Then took a walk on the path out of the village towards the lighthouse at Rubna nan Gall. I had to stop for awhile and embrace the panorama on the rocks, that you can see in the video below. Across at the visible points. Hours could of passed blissfully. Read my book a little and went up to the lighthouse.

Had my lunch there in the remote air, then walked back passed the Tobermory golf club.

Back into the village, I stopped for a pint in a local pub.

I found myself imagining what it would be like to actually live here, and would love to hear the experience of anyone that does or has in the past. The challenges faced by the dependence on the ferry service for supplies and tourist income, work and schooling. Surviving the winter months also.

I had a gander in the Tobermory whiskey distillery, which was interesting. A local heritage brand.

https://tobermorydistillery.com/.

I also saw this memorial stone for servicemen in Tobermory who gave their lives during the first world war.

I then got the bus back to the port and then ferry back to Oban. A meal and a good sleep followed. A memorable day to say the least.

The following day I walked up to to McCaig’s Tower and appreciated one of Oban’s most recognisable landmarks. Like a small local granite piece of the roman colosseum. Intended by the architect. Take the opportunity to stop for a bit and digest the scene if offers.

I then found a tourist information centre and they pointed me in the direction of the much smaller island day trip of Kerrera. About an hour’s walk from town. I took the walk and had an hour to kill before the next ferry departure. I read a bit on the rocks smelling the fresh seaweed and everything was grand. There were several hill-points to take some good shots.

The ferry is a little open air boat runs across the 2 landings you can see here, back and forth. Costs about £6/7 if i remember rightly. Crosses take 5 minutes.

Remember to bring some lunch with you in your rucksack. Going to Kerrera really gets you out in the remote shores.

Arriving on Kerrera, I headed left on the track that is on the perimeter of the island. I soon found an old bullet in the mud that nearly tripped me up. Its in my flat now! There were obviously some drivers here as there were a of handful of houses and the roads are tracks most suitable for Land Rovers. The main life is sheeps and cows, you pass them on the tracks as you walk around, they seemed to like it here. Small; far away. This place makes craggy island look like Dubai! The best advice i can give is get there in enough time to walk the whole way round it. It took me about 5 and half hours with breaks to consciously feel the tranquility. I stopped at this spot for 45 minutes.

I walked passed the Kerrera Tea Garden and Bunkhouse, but it was closed at this time. I’m sure staying overnight there would be special in a place like this. Wake up to a nice Cuppa on one of the benches overlooking the land and catching the coast. You really feel a different type of fresh air here, that you feel all through your body. The walking gets your lungs going especially. Bring water and ideally wear hiking boots for the rocky parts and the muddy tracks. Its proper off the grid, but if your looking for somewhere to take a long walk and forget the hustle and bustle of the modern world this will definitely fit the bill!

I stopped at another peaceful spot, more of a bank that was less rocky and took this picture to the left.

You can see the outer reaches of Mull here.

Birds flew past from time to time, but Im no ornithologist. Just added to the peace.

I found another artefact that looked suspiciously like some sort of victorian butt-plug! As with the bullet, you wonder how long they have been left here untouched by human hands. Very much like Kerrera itself.

Gylen Castle is worth a look and these ruin formations of an old stone house below.

This walk round the island was purifying.

I missed out on the summit point of Carn Breugach, but that might be worth a look for the view at 189 metres up. Truth is I was knackered by the time i made it round back to the ferry point, and couldn’t have done that aswell.

The Kerry Lighthouse is suitable pretty on the northernmost point. Shows the entrance to Oban Bay. Hutcheson’s monument is here aswell. This part of the island is popular for otters and seals splashing around.

I envy the occupants of this farm house here, to wake up to this spectacle every morning.

Would you ever get bored of that?

At the end of day I got the ferry back and had the hour walk back into Oban town centre. Tired and starving. I stopped at a bar for table service outside for 2 pints of Innis & Gunn. Went down well and quickly. Then off to find somewhere that served food then. I found Markie Dans at the north end of town and devoured a chicken burger and chips, washed down with 2 more pints in their beer garden. Hit the spot. Then back to the hotel and straight to sleep in all of 15 minutes.

The next day i bought a few gift in the town for family before heading home. It was a memorable holiday and I felt blessed to get the chance to go to these places. If you have enjoyed this post please like, subscribe, comment or get in touch using the details below:

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Just before Covid; in February 2020, I moved to Glasgow, Scotland.

This post is a tale of experiences of a born and bred Devon boy now living in Glasgow. Over 2 and a half years and only now do I feel in a position to really put across my perspective as a resident of this city.

Before moving here, I had only visited once in June 2018 staying at my pal’s in the west end of the city. As much as I enjoyed it, it would have been a surprise to learn that i would be living there 20 months later.

In December 2019 I was made redundant from my job working for John Lewis in Plymouth. Ended up moving back home for a few months. Then the same pal i stayed with before said I could crash at his in Glasgow for awhile. I gratefully jumped at the opportunity. Looked for place to live and a job. Didn’t sort out both of these until the week of March 16th 2020. A week later Boris gave his now famous “Stay at Home, Protect the NHS, Save Lives” speech. Looking back this was a bizarre time in my life. I had just arrived in a new city with a new place to live and a new job; then to be told the world has shut down and we are experiencing a global pandemic that requires us to minimise human contact.

I found a room in a nice flat in the fashionable east end district of Dennistoun. Popular in polls of the coolest places to live. Described as a “secluded Island”. I also ended up working 10 minutes walk away. In a call centre for a 119 NHS Covid response service. Booking Covid tests for people with symptoms. A good gig everything considered in difficult times.

When i wasn’t working, i was exploring the city and other new areas around for me. One of the special truths about Glasgow is that once you get on a train and head out of the city, you are in beautiful country landscapes in no time. Like those in the Loch Lomond area. Or a trek up Dumgoyne hill in the Campsie Fells. Have a wee dram at the whiskey distillery.

Dennistoun is perfect for getting the train from the local stop of Bellgrove direct to Edinburgh for a cultural day out in the old town.

A walk up Arthur’s Seat hill or a Castle tour.

That first spring in 2020 was memorable for seeing Glasgow in the eyes of a newbie, without the busyness of a major city. Experiences like going on the subway or seeing sights of the city centre with major attractions closed. Like everyone else, your just trying to stay healthy and survive.

The time in the west end was excellent, but the area was very student centred. Being in the east end felt much more authentic to Glasgow. A short walk to the Parkhead, Celtic park football ground for the green half of this city. The rivalry in the city between Celtic and Rangers is something else. Im more drawn to the Celtic side myself. In some pubs you are not allowed to wear any football colours at all. Sectarianism still exists.

My place, just off the known duke street, populated by bars, restaurants and charity shops.

Spots for a pint of Tennents, very close to the Tennents factory. You can in-fact smell the beer being made in the local area. I personally liked it, as I like the beer. Never done the tour tho.

Glasgow has its main museums like Kelvingrove Art Gallery and The Transport Museum on the banks of the Clyde. Both fantastic, free and worth a browse in the west end. Covid meant I had to wait for them to open again. Kelvingrove has this original Salvador Dali you can can see here.

The Transport museum has models of original bus and subway carriages. The Glasgow subway system being one of the oldest in

Europe, dating back to 1896.

The tall ship is next to this museum. Excellent and you can learn about the history of Glasgow’s shipyards, a critical port in the 20th century western world. Before my move, my only reference point was the tales of the legendary Billy Connolly. There is a mural of him by St Enoch subway station in the city centre.

The Science Centre next to the Hydro arena is also interesting. Fun for families aswell. Games and interactive features that test your mind and perception helping you learn science. Theres a whole feature that details each of the Planets in our Solar system and their distance an reliance to the sun.

You can also get your height exactly and a test on identifying a criminal with screen memory tasks.

Back in the east end, the Necropolis shows the famous Glasgow Cathedral to the left here.

This is spectacular inside and out. Im not a christian man, but you can only admire this architecture. Built in the late 12th century and also known as St Mungo’s church for glasgow’s patron saint and his place of burial. The Necropolis is a an archaic Victorian Cemetery. Has an eerie feel.

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If you like a nice spot for a few pints and some food in Dennistoun, you can check out the Palais or Coia’s cafe on duke street.

This picture was on a outside table of Palais when the pubs first re-opened with Covid restrictions. Much needed at the time.

Dennistoun was described by an older colleague of mine as historically “a smaller and cheaper version of Glasgow’s west end.”

Before Covid; in the west end me and my pal would go to bars on byres road like Tennent’s bar. Close by is Jinty McGuinty’s Irish Bar, which is always a fun wee night on ashton lane. Some live music often involving a fiddle. A pretty dark haired girl who wouldn’t look out of place in The Corrs.

Its pricey around there tho, and i always enjoyed it more for a day or night out. The botanic gardens a beautiful horticultural breath of fresh air. Second-hand books to browse there sometimes.

The most famous Devonian in Glasgow is Buckfast, the tonic wine drink. Made in South Devon, but drank in Glasgow. You see empty bottles everywhere. It tastes sweet and a good way to finish a night. Or “Bucky” as they call it here.

There are some nice city parks in different parts of the town. Bellahouston, Alexandra, Queens, Victoria and Kelvingrove to name a few. Bellahouston on the south side is very peaceful, as well as being the scene for many summer gigs over the years. You can make a nice cheap day for yourself taking the subway or train to see a few of the parks in a day. Maybe a jog aswell if you like. This video above is of Victoria park in the west end.

There are plenty of smaller hotels and bnbs’ around these parts. You can see a decent amount of the city in a short trip, but living here gives you a different perspective. The slogan “People make Glasgow” from the council makes a lot of sense actually. People don’t take themselves too seriously. Tough, hard-working but friendly for the most part. If you like banter, you will love it. The tall tenement housing buildings are district and reflect the authentic working class roots of the city.

A wee tip, especially for gym rats, is the Glasgow Club (Glasgow Life) app for the public council gyms and leisure centres. You check information for all these gyms (don’t need to book for gym) and book swimming and fitness sessions available in the city. I love using this and continue to use it now. £3 for a swim and the Whitehill and Gorbals pools are perfect for an excercise refresh boost.

Earlier this year, I moved to Govanhill in Glasgow’s south side area. The makeup is diverse with a variety of languages spoken, the Roma and Pakistani communities making this district their home. Other middle eastern nationalities live and work here. There is a fantastic Kurdish takeaway i love for their mixed chicken and lamb spiced wrap. Arguably the most diverse place in Scotland, which the shops on Victoria and Cathcart Roads reflect. There are active social movements that support issues like immigration and environmental action. Charitable causes for local people.

A night out at SWG3 warehouse for an event called Trancefest was this october. Glasgow is known for its techno music and supporting fanbase. Much of the trance played had a techno edge to it.

A fun rave space and a good atmosphere. If you prefer rock check out Solid Rock near central station or The Cathouse (also city centre) for early 2000s nu-metal.

If you have enjoyed reading this post please share, subscribe, comment, like or tell me your opinion. There will be more posts about Glasgow to come.

Safe Travels!

Email: tom.balfe89@gmail.com

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Scotland Holidays often involve hills, lochs and rain.

This one was no different and I will tell you all about it.

Last Summer I took 7 day trip up north to the Scottish highlands. Still in Covid times, but an excellent stay-cation and packed loads in on a budget.

The first three nights were in Inverness. I booked a reasonably priced Hostel through The HostelWorld website, called Black Isle. Very central and in easy reach of buses and the train.

I arrived on a Friday afternoon full of excitement, a week off before starting a new job. Had an early pint outside in a pub on the other side of Ness bridge as you head out of the city centre.

Once I had set myself up in the Hostel, the trip began with an open top bus tour of Inverness and the surrounding area.

A beautiful landscape. You can really see why Inverness sells itself as “the capital of the highlands” and the “gateway to exploring it further. It is the most northerly city in Scotland and the history paves the streets, shops and landmarks of the town.

Victorian builds like Inverness Castle and the Free North Church of Scotland (the spire poking its head out in the picture) can be seen perfectly fringing the River Ness.

The hills and countryside around is complimented by trees and some farmland.

Greenery is everywhere. The open-top bus is the best way to see this for yourself.

You can take the blue-route (I took), the red route or both. £10 each or £18 for both.

Back at the Hostel was a space space. Reasonable dorms with lockers. Fridges in the kitchen where you put any labelled food. Showers were fine. In the bunks there are reading lights, which was good for me as I had two books on the go (Band of Brothers and an old John Le Carre). Went to a pub for some seafood and an ale. Was a nice summer evening. Slept fine aswell.

Wide awake at 6 am, bit of toast, showers, grabbed my stuff an off! Id booked a day long bus tour of Loch Ness. I used a Company called Rabbies Tours. An archetype Scotland Tour setup; a guy from Edinburgh in a kilt giving us a tour of Loch Ness in a small bus.

https://www.rabbies.com/en/scotland-tours/from-inverness/1-3-day-tours/the-complete-loch-ness-experience-day-tour

Our small, cosy group were driven around Loch Ness and we stopped at various points of interest. Stopping at Foyers Waterfall, a long walk down and then back up again. Worth looking at for videos. The sound of the water is mindfullness itself.

Fort Augustus on the west is nice to see Caledonian canal and the boats passing through it. The supporting quaint little village, perfect for a tea and snack. You can enjoy this whilst sitting on the canal bank as I did. Later we went to Castle ruins, infact going inside some aswell. You will notice the smell (not unpleasant), like you would a burnt building.

Then onto Find Nessie. We went on a boat out into Loch Ness. There was an extra charge (between £10-£15) but worth every penny. Scotland’s largest, most famous Loch and I find it difficult to believe there is any more impressive. Simply Stunning.

We cruised through the loch for over an hour. The Tour guide told us that some people look for Nessie up and down on their boat, as a full-time job. The closest we came to it were the fluffy toys in the gift shops, but nevermind eh! When looking across the loch and to the surrounding hills, you had the feeling that you could have seen the same spectacle hundreds and possibly thousands of years ago. It was that special. We got close to the ancient ruins of Urquhart Castle.

I bought a bottle of whisky in one of the gift shops. A Gaelic brand called “Slainte” translating as “Health”. Looking at the bottle you could mistake it for aftershave. After this we headed back to Inverness. All in all, a grand day out.

Back at the hostel I got talking to another solo traveller who was soon heading further north to Orkney. Had a few pints in cheery pub with a Celtic style band playing. Good vibes.

The next day, I headed out early to the most northerly point on my trip; the picturesque fishing village of Ullapool. Even as the coach pulled in, you could see a large ferry ready to head out to one of the Islands. It hammered down with rain all day, but did nothing to deter me. I had my breakfast, which was a bacon sandwich and some tea from my flask (an essential item for this type of expedition) whilst looking across the misty seafront. The houses around looked old and weather beaten from the winters. Paths away from the village took you out to fishing spots and streams. Theres a charm to this place.

I went to the tourist information to find a hill to venture up.

I chose Beinn Eilideach via Ullapool hill (Meall Mor). It took several hours, but you get decent vantage points of the village and the landscape at frequent points trekking up the hill. A good pair of walking boots are a must for this, and waterproofs for days like this one.

This pile of rocks marked the highest point.

I had my lunch on a bench spot in the video below. Rugged.

After taking in scenery fresh, air and having a wee rest, I went back down.

Stopping at a local pub for a pint outside to warm me up then got the coach back.

Later on I went for a pizza and drinks at the Black Isle Bar and restaurant, owned by the hostel just down the road from it. It had a backpacker and student vibe. Everyone was friendly. Got chatting to a kiwi girl living in London who had been to Skye that day. Told me it reminded her of being back in New Zealand.

The next morning I took a final walk around Inverness and took everything in. A final stop was Leakey’s bookshop, a real old fashioned cool place to have a browse. Then I got the train to Aviemore in the Cairngorms. I arrived after midday and took a slow walk to my hotel. It was a longer walk from the town this time. I found the Coylumbridge Aviemore Hotel is basically in the woods. As much in the woods as you get today. Out on its own, most guests are drivers it has an Overlook hotel aura. Nice though. Took awhile to check in, the room en-suite with a double bed and a tv. Headed to the front outdoor patio tables for a beer in the sun. I relaxed for the rest of the day and dived in to the buffet dinner. Slept like a baby.

Next morning, breakfast with the buffet of full-english after some coffee and porridge. Set me up for the day. Walked into Aviemore and got an early bus to the Anagach Woods beyond the town of Grantown-on-Spey. Once you get there you will sense the sight and smell of pine trees that tower over you. You can stop at one of the Borders of the River Spey, spots to read and meditate with the sound of the water. I couldn’t tell you how long I was doing this for, as didn’t care for time.

Deeper in the woods it dark and the trees get taller. Below is a kind of crossroads I found.

The woods eventually end if you keep going and then emerge on open country space.

Heading back into Grantown, took a wander of the town before catching the bus back to Aviemore. Continuing to follow a guidebook I purchased, went looking for Craigellachie National Nature Reserve. This one of the main reason I chose Aviemore as destination. Full of Gorgeous silver birch trees. and birds chirping away in summer months like this one. I began the climb up Craigallachie hill. This was quite steep for me at times. Its a popular trek with a choice of paths. The views are spectacular as you reach the summit points. You can see some of the winter sports facilities that bring tourists in during those months.

The village below is a colour contrast with the green trees and fields. The misty mountains are the perfect backdrop. The rainbow in the video below added to the ambience. This is from the top.

This pool of water reflected the afternoon sun, when breaking through the clouds. You really felt like you were in the Scottish highlands.

The ground was mossy and there was a pile of rocks to mark the top of this hill aswell.

I stayed and admired for the best part of an hour.

Others made the same climb and I shared some words with a young couple who were taking photographs and said this was their favourite view in the Cairngorms.

I then made a slow walk back down and got a hot dog from a pub, some tasty comfort food. A few drinks back at the hotel, then reading before bed.

The next day i took a long walk through the woodlands to Loch Morlich. A small beach popular with tourists, many in campervans. You could hire kayaks for the day at this time of year. Other watersports like sailing and and windsurfing are also well liked here. Peaceful nonetheless. The Boathouse cafe is ideal for a cup of tea and bite to eat on the beach benches. The Loch is vast. You walk alongside it through the woods or the road and as you head towards the beach, its a real gem. Tourists can take their kids in the loch for a dip. The watersports look like good fun, especially watching the kayaks and the windsurfers. Good business for the locals.

Its a long walk from the hotel I stayed, so i took it easy and lay on the beach. Changing my spot every so often to read and take some pictures. Im so glad I got the chance to go here.

Loch Morlich:

On my last full day of the trip I went searching the Cairngorms for Loch an Eilein. This is hidden deeply in the Rothiemurchus forest. It is less busy than Morlich and really gives you the feeling of being out in the wilderness. The walk through the twisty forest paths, go off in all sorts of directions and you could lose yourself here. If you keep to the paths with signposting to Loch An Eilein you come out of the periphery of trees that surround this beautiful area. Basically its like something from the wizard of oz.

I found a clearing to have some lunch. Eventually i came out into Loch An Eilein.

You can access this by car aswell, but i recommended coming through the forest.

You feel like you have discovered it.

This was the day a chose to grab my swimming shorts and go for a swim in the Loch. Eilein looked colder than Morlich, so I braced myself for the chill. You dive in and its a jolt thats for sure! It had to be done tho. Your body temperature readjusts after a few minutes and then you start to enjoy it. I swam towards a small island of land in the loch you can see in the video below. Its very therapeutic and great for your mental health. Its fine to leave your stuff for a while aswell, its safe.

After all that, I walked back to the hotel had a big dinner and a wee dram before bed. The next day I checked out and got the train back home. A fantastic trip and would thoroughly recommend the places I went.

If you would to talk more about Solo Travelling and have enjoyed reading this please get in touch using the details below:

tom.balfe89@gmail.com

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